The Blue Lake and an unhappy Troll

The first day of our holiday in Barmouth dawned grey and misty, with a forecast of rain that would hopefully clear later in the morning. 'Not the greatest start to a holiday,' I told myself, but we have waterproof coats and fervently believe that rain water never harmed anyone. So off we set in search of the Blue Lake, which lies on the opposite side of the Mawddach estuary. 

We made our way down to the harbour and boarded the Fairborne Ferry for the first trip of the morning; its only passengers. On arrival at the other side, our plan was to travel on the Fairbourne Steam Railway but we quickly changed our minds when confronted with a 40 minute wait and a charge of £8.90 each for a 1¾ mile ride beside a road.

Half way along that road the little train puffed past on its outward journey. Its toy-like appearance failed to impress, so we held hands and congratulated ourselves on a wise decision to walk.  One may buy a lot of strength-sustaining ice cream for £8.90!

It began to rain... heavily. We  squelched our way past the Steam Railway station, over the 'main line' railway and into the hills. Perhaps, I mused, the Fairbourne gods were punishing us for our unkind thoughts about their railway, but their curses were in vain. Soon, as forecast, the rain ceased, we shed our waterproof coats and began to dry out.

Mist still hung low over the Mawddach as we neared the Blue Lake. That's Fairbourne on the left and Barmouth on the other side of the estuary.

As you can see, Blue Lake is in a flooded quarry. Thanks to dissolved minerals, the water appears blue on even the greyest day. Locals will tell you that the lake is deeper than the hill is high. You can make up your own mind about that one, though according to several Internet sites it is a popular spot for diving. I chose to stand well back.

A special feature of Blue Lake is its entrance to the water's edge. Do you see that dark tunnel above the right hand wheel?

 In we go...

 ... and out the other side.

From Blue Lake we took a pleasant footpath through the hills and down to the Mawddach Trail, which follows the course of an old railway line.

I was keen to see Arthog Waterfalls, where the Avon Arthog cascades down to the Mawddach in two distinct falls. This is the higher of the two. I could hear the roar of water at the other but, try as I might, couldn't get a glimpse. Only after returning to our holiday cottage did I read that access has become blocked by dense bracken. O well... finer waterfalls will feature in later posts about our holiday.

We returned to the Mawddach Trail and followed it up-river for about ¾ mile before turning and heading back to Barmouth, this time crossing the estuary on Barmouth Bridge, which pedestrians share with trains.

Bridge tolls were removed in 2013, partly because the cost of collecting them was as much as the toll income; partly because when the toll collectors left no-one else wanted the job. Some time later a toll of £1 was reintroduced with an 'honesty box' - please pay the troll.  No-one else we saw on the bridge paid anything, so I don't think the troll was doing very well. I paused, fixed his green face with my evil gaze and tempted him to sing:

I'm a troll, fol dee rol,

I'm a troll, fol dee rol

but he remained silent.  The Bergermeister of Barmouth is definitely missing a trick here! So, sensing that the troll had been struck dumb and was quaking at my presence, I sang:

I am a nanny goat gruff,

I am a nanny goat gruff,

I am a nanny goat, nanny nanny nanny goat,

Nanny nanny nanny goat gruff!..

and clip-clop, clip-clopped off the bridge.

S--, who is more honest a citizen than I, fed him a couple of pounds. 

Here's most of the route, plotted on Memory Map. Total distance walked was a shade over 15 miles.