Saturday, 15 September 2018

A last look around Garlieston

O dear, I'm falling behind with my posts. I've just returned from a lovely week's holiday in Wales but haven't finished blogging about the last one in Galloway. So to round things off here is a walk that Ruth Livingston – Ruth's Coastal Walk  (see my blog list) – describes as "totally blissful" and "one of the most amazing stretches of walking so far." That, from a lady who had walked the entire coast from Norfolk to Galloway is high praise indeed.

I persuaded my son to drop me off at the end of a lane that would, I confidently expected, lead me to the shores of Wigtown Bay. Only after walking about half a mile did I realise that I was on the wrong lane, so back I went, up the Wigtown road a bit, then onto the right road to Innerwell Port.  Expunge from your mind all visions of ports with ocean-going vessels moored at bustling quaysides. This 'port' (and a couple more, further along the walk) are just shingle coves where one might beach a rowing boat. Presumably in times past they were busier places.


When Ruth was here in May, bluebells were in bloom and this must have been an enchanting walk. In late August it was less colourful but still very beautiful.


This photo at Port McGean is one of my favourites of the whole holiday; I invite you to click it for a better view. The white sand, blue hills and billowing clouds capture the beauty of the place more than my words could tell. I lingered here for quite a while and sent a few flat stones skimming into the bay.


Rounding Eggerness Point I could see Garlieston, my 'home' for this week. It took me several days to remember its name; I kept calling it Gaviscon, much to my family's amusement. Somewhere amid those houses this walk ended but you and I can continue with some photos taken a few days earlier.


Yes, here is Garlieston again, this time viewed from the other side of the little bay. Like many tidal estuaries, this one seemed to be mud most of the time.


Cows graze to the water's edge between Garlieston and Rigg Bay. Somewhere among those distant hills is Big Water of Fleet viaduct, the subject of my last post.


This little shelter puzzled me. Inside are pictures of wildlife that may be spotted here, but the shelter surely faces the wrong way. The estuary, with its abundance of wildlife, is behind it! Perhaps one is supposed to commit the pictures to memory before creeping carefully around the shelter for a spot of twitching or seal spotting. 


Onward to Rigg Bay, where the Mulberry Harbours that played such an important role in the D-Day Landings were developed.  The Solway Firth was chosen because the tidal rise is similar to that of the Normandy coastline, whilst the remoteness of Garlieston and Rigg Bay helped to ensure that secrecy could be maintained.


This colourful information board records those wartime exploits, and also informs me that I'm half way between Garlieston and my destination for this walk, Cruggleton's ruined Castle.



And here it is. Not much remains, save a few earthworks and this much-restored arch. The castle never was very large and in 1563 was guarded by just two men. At least they had nice views to help while away the time.


Finally, a view from Cruggleton Point, looking back towards Garlieston and Wigtown Bay. 



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