Mousehole at it looks on Tom Bawcott's Eve - and on every evening over Christmas |
So do I miss it? Yes, of course. But I would miss the Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley every bit as much if ever I had to leave... which I sincerely hope never to do.
In truth, it's not those balmy summer Cornish days that I miss most; it's Christmas. For 17 of my 61 years I was privileged to live in West Cornwall and there – if you take the trouble to divorce yourself from the nauseating excesses of a world bent on spending as much money as possible between Black Friday and the last New Year Sale – Christmas is very different.
To start with, the carols are different, but I've blogged about them before – Helston 2, maybe 3.
The days of Advent pass in song and merriment. But just before the great day there comes a unique West Cornwall celebration - Tom Bawcock's Eve. Down on the quayside in Mousehole (always pronounced 'Mouzel'), outside the Ship Inn, the crowds gather to sing:
The Ship Inn |
A merry place you may believe,
was Mouzel ‘pon Tom Bawcock’s eve.
To be there then who wud'n wish
to sup on seb'n sorts o’ fish.
When morgy broth had cleared the path,
comed lances for a fry.
And then us had a bit o'scad
and Starry Gazy Pie.
Believe me, what the song may lack in artistic merit is more than compensated for by the enthusiasm of the crowds – and all the more so if you've already warmed yourself with a glass of something alcoholic in the Ship!And then us had a bit o'scad
and Starry Gazy Pie.
Tom Bawcock (not Ballcock, as my friend Steve used to call him!) is a legendary figure who is said to have saved Mousehole from starvation by setting to sea one stormy December night. Brave Tom managed to catch enough fish to feed the entire village. Somewhat improbably he put the whole catch - comprising seven sorts of fish - into an enormous pie, which he baked with the fish heads poking though the pastry. Thus Stargazy Pie was born. To my shame, I've yet to taste any.
Since moving to England (the Cornish rarely consider their land part of England) I've tried hard to preserve the excitement, warmth and humour of my West Cornwall Christmases, but I sense the magic fading, despite putting up my tree and decs a little earlier each year. The number of cards arriving is gradually diminishing as friends become infirmed or die, and others forget us or choose to save on postage. And when two of my grandchildren asked for shopping vouchers last Christmas I knew that the magic was truly departing. How can you get excited about unwrapping an Amazon voucher?!
Magic... that's it. Christmas needs magic to keep it alive, lest it descend into a meaningless festival to Amazon, Tesco and PC World. For me it needs family and good friends, traditions to revel in, rousing songs to sing and the renewed gift of the Christ Child.
Friends, family if you have any about and a shared roast dinner. All you'l need for a good Yule.
ReplyDeleteI used to stay with my grandparents in Mousehole mnay many years ago - Tom Bawcocks Eve is REALLY special - we always had fish & then the wonderful lights in the harbour & up the hill past the Church up to Paul An aunt lived up on the hill & she had lights near her cottage too. I miss it - but I don't miss the horrendeous number of "Emets" (Visitors to Cornwall - but especially Mousehole as they double the native population daily!)
ReplyDeleteI always read the story of the "Mousehole Cat" to my children when they were younger - now they are adults in the world & I doubt it even crosses their minds - but I keep to it.
Happy Tom Bawcocks Eve to everyone!