An Internet search returned a link to this leaflet. It was produced by the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Unit (a nice snappy title!) in 2012 and describes an interesting short walk, with a couple of possible extensions. Thanks to the good people of the Wye Valley AONB unit, I now know that Penallt was once famous for its millstones and cider presses, made from hard, abrasive puddingstone. The leaflet also informed me that the area was once rich in cider orchards.
- No better cider does the world supply
than grows along thy borders, gentle Wye.
This is The Boat Inn, where they have been serving ale – and doubtless cider too – since 1650. Access from the English side of the river is via Penallt Viaduct, that used also to carry trains until the railway closed in 1964.
How's this for a drinks board? – two ales and ten ciders! I chose half a pint of Rosie's Pig to go with my tuna and baked potato. Very tasty it was, too; not too sweet and not the slightest bit fizzy. (That's the cider, by the way, not the baked potato.) Just the way I like it.
It was time to seek out a few millstones. Guided by the walk leaflet, I made my way downstream.
It's hard to imagine, but this was once a tow-path, used for pulling trows (shallow-drafted sailing boats) up the river. I had to battle the undergrowth in several places and congratulated myself on choosing long trousers to wear.
According to the leaflet, there should be some millstones around here that literally 'missed the boat' and ended up in the river.
Ah! Fishermen in these parts must have tired of people disturbing their solitude in search of millstones. But the fisherman's hut, high on the bank, stood empty and there was no-one else around...
... so down I went – and there indeed were some of Penallt's puddingstone millstones. How sad, though, to think of how they had been quarried, crafted and brought down to the Wye, only to miss the boat and lie here for the next 150 years.
On the way back I noticed a couple more millstones in the water. This time I was a good girl and photographed them from the footpath.
It was a steep, steep climb from the river, through Indian Country to the next 'point of interest' on the trail.
This is the Prisk Wood nature reserve.
-
Prisk Wood hides a maze of abandoned millstone quarry workings. You don't have to look far before you find evidence of this hidden industry.
then was grateful for them once more, as I threaded my way through Pen-twyn and back to the Wye Valley. Nettles and brambles in combination – Ouch! Around these parts they once grew cider apples in abundance; they even baptized babies in cider. What a great way to start life!
They still do grow apples in the Wye Valley and, for all I know, still turn it into cider. This is Mill Bank Farm
4½ miles |
On the other hand, that half pint of cider at The Boat was excellent! The temptation to work my way down the list is hard to resist.
Angie, play your cards right and I may treat you to another pint of cider in September!
ReplyDeleteLucy