Paper production in a Welsh valley

Clearwater Paper Mill

I enjoyed last week's walk around Whitestone and Cleddon Falls so much that I decided to return to the Welsh side of the Wye Valley for another ramble. This one, from Whitebrook, is only 2¾ miles long – an ideal Thursday afternoon 'quicky'.

Like many steep valleys in this area, Whitebrook was once a hive of water-powered industry. Now it's a beautiful and quiet place but the remains of the old mills are easy to spot. One in particular fascinated me – the former Clearwater Paper Mill, which operated between about 1760 and 1875.

I spent many years working for English China Clays in Cornwall, where much of our product was used in the paper industry – either as a filler (mixed with the wood pulp) or as a coating to give paper its familiar fine or glossy finish.  Might Cornish china clay have found its way to Whitebook? Sadly the answer is 'no'.

Despite the abundance of wood hereabouts, Clearwater Paper Mill made its pulp by pulverising rags. Later they switched to Spanish esparto grass and, thanks to the clear water of White Book, produced such pure white paper that it was used for bank notes.

I found myself wondering when wood pulp was first used to make paper. The answer turned out to be 1845 (thank you, Google) though I guess that it took a few decades for the process to become commonplace. However, by the time of its closure in 1875 Clearwater must have been somewhat behind the times.

Incidentally, thanks again to Google, I discovered that there is a Clearwater Paper Corporation in the USA – underlining the fact that you do need clear water to make good paper. I wonder whether they know of their old namesake in a wooded Welsh valley?

After much peering over shrubbery and musing about paper production, there's not much more to say about this short walk, other than it is very beautiful.

Here I am on the path through Pwllplythin Wood, which I followed for about a mile before crossing White Brook and climbing up to The Narth, whose residents seem to have an enthusiasm for flying flags. There was a Welsh one (of course), the 12 stars of the EU (I sympathise) and one of uncertain origin outside the village hall – and all within the space of about ½ a mile.  Next time I pass this way I'm sorely tempted to plant the Cross of St Piran in a hedgerow!

Manor Brook

From The Narth I descended to Manor Brook and thence back to my starting point in Whitebrook. A shade under 2mph is a bit slow for me, but there had been much dallying on the way and a stiff, rocky climb out of the White Brook valley.