Tuesday 28 June 2016

Confusion in Lydford

Cornwall is a long way from home. Well, not that far compared to (say) Tim Peake's journey to the Space Station, but far enough.  At my age it's nice to break the journey... and anyway, I've always believed that a holiday begins when you leave home, not when you arrive at your destination.

So it was that S- and I dropped in at Lydford Gorge, in Devon. I think it's the fourth time we've been there, but this time there was a special connection for now we live but a few minutes' walk from the River Lyd — Gloucestershire's River Lyd, that is — and Lydford Gorge is (surprise, surprise) also on a River Lyd.

When we arrived it was raining heavily; surely a good sign that there would be plenty of water in the gorge. Looking decidedly unhappy, though, were a couple whose car had broken down in the car park. They'd called the AA and were assured that a man in a yellow van would be there "soon". That was 2½ hours ago. The AA had dispatched their guy to the wrong Lydford — Lydford in Somerset.

I didn't know there was a Lydford in Somerset and neither did the disgruntled couple but it's there, sure enough.  It's on the River.....  ah.... the River Brue!  Funny lot, those Somerset folk. (Actually, if you read the Wikipedia article, it all makes sense.)

White Lady Waterfall (pictured above) was looking as lovely as ever. At 90ft, it's the highest waterfall in the South West and gets its name from a ghostly white-robed lady who appears there from time to time. Honestly. I read it on the Countryfile website, so it must be true.


I began to regret the leaden skies as they rather put a damper on my photography. The river also looked ominously tame, compared with previous visits. There was no denying its beauty, though.


At several places along the gorge the footpath gets quite narrow and tricky. I wonder how many people have fallen in here and gone floating back to White Lady Falls? I hung on tightly and congratulated myself on donning walking boots.


Finally, near the top of the gorge, is the Devil's Cauldron. I've seen this as a raging torrent, but not this time. Perhaps the Devil was having a nap — confirmed by the fact that the rain had abated and the sun was breaking through the haze.

We made our way back to the car park, where a man with a yellow van was packing away his tools.

2 comments:

  1. I'm glad the people who had broken down eventually got help. Nothing more likely to ruin a day out than car trouble.

    I visited Lydford Gorge three or four years ago, and there was plenty of rushing water. I agree that the path is tricky in places. There was one optional section that was just too scary for my taste, and I didn't attempt it. Otherwise well worth the effort - though having seen the Birks of Aberfeldy it would be difficult to say that Lydford Gorge beats all other watery beauty spots for spectacle!

    Lucy

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  2. In a region known better for its coastline and moorlands, Lydford Gorge does stands out as being rather unusual. Agreed, it's probably not as spectacular as the Birks of Aberfeldy, though when I visited the Birks a few year ago there was very little water in them too.

    The other problem with Aberfeldy is that it's rather a long diversion from the road to Cornwall! (Sorry... couldn't resist that one.)

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